Secrets of the island cheese to please

IN the lush green of Glen Huon is Glen Huon Dairy, the farm producing milk for Bruny Island Cheese Company. 

Bruny Island Cheese, a popular spot for Bruny Island visitors was founded in 2003 by Nick Haddow, a chef-turned-cheesemaker with a passion for creating unique cheeses. 

The venture began by sourcing milk from other dairies, however, in 2017 they launched their own dairy farm at Glen Huon, featuring three exotic breeds of cows: Normande, Australian Shorthorn, and Brown Swiss. 

These breeds are chosen specifically for their cheese-making qualities, as their milk contributes to the unique flavours and textures of Bruny Island Cheese. 

Ajun Shaju took over the reins as farm manager in 2023 and since then has looked after the cows, ensuring their quality milk. 

He says the milk from these cows are ideal for cheese production due to their distinctive tastes. 

“The Brown Swiss cows make a taste that is distinct to the cheese coming out of France,” he said. “Australian Shorthorn is considered as arare breed so that also brings some uniqueness to our cheese and what we do here,” Mr Shajun said. 

Glen Huon dairy is comprised of two key properties, the main property at Deep-Water Farm spanning 36ha and their second 60ha property, Forest Home, where the cows are relocated to during the off-season. 

There, the cows graze on fresh grass allowing the main paddock to recover and ensures a constant supply of nutrient-rich grass during calving and milking season. 

The milking process at Glen Huon Dairy starts early each day when the cows are milked using a herringbone system, which accommodates multiple cows at once in a diagonal pattern.

The farm’s commitment to quality is evident in their hygiene standards and the care given to the cows. Each cow is cleaned and checked daily to ensure they are healthy. 

At the moment there are 45 cows in the milking herd. Next year they will be able to bring the milking herd up to 60. 

Mr Shaju says the cows’ diet is 90 per cent grass-based, supplemented with grain for essential nutrients.

“Cow health plays a big part in the quality of the milk and then, of course, the taste of the cheese, so this is really important to us,” Mr Shaju said. 

“Initially we were milking the cows twice a day, but we have found that milking once a day is better for the cows.” 

“We found with milking once a day, our milk levels were still good, the protein to fat ratio was still good and the cows were getting more rest so to us that is a benefit.” 

During milking season each cow will produce around 18 litres of milk a day. 

The milk produced at Glen Huon Dairy is sent to two cheese-making facilities – one on Bruny Island for their soft cheeses and another at Ranelagh for hard cheeses. 

Despite having three breeds with different milks, all of the milks are mixed together before making the cheese meaning the cheeses have a unique blend. 

“All three breeds are exotic, and they all bring in different flavours and it wouldn’t make sense for us to milk one breed at a time, clean the vat and start again, if we wanted to do that, we would more likely just stick with the one breed,” Mr Shaju said. 

The texture and flavour of the cheese vary with the seasons and as the cows’ fat-protein ratio fluctuates. 

This is influenced by factors such as the cows’ diet, the quality of the grass, their location and whether they are pregnant. 

This variation is celebrated with Bruny Island Cheese’s offerings like their cheese boxes which often feature different batches of the same cheese to showcase the seasonal differences in flavour and texture. 

Bruny Island Cheese make cheese out of both pasteurized and unpasteurized milk. They are the first in Australia to make a raw milk cheese and also the first in Australia to export it. 

Currently, all hard cheeses are made with raw milk, while their soft cheeses use pasteurized milk. 

They offer five permanent cheese varieties and release limited edition cheeses monthly. 

Recently, their raw milk “c2” cheese won gold for the best hard cheese at the World Cheese Awards in Norway. Glen Huon Dairy is also a hub for visitors eager to experience the charm of dairy farming. 

The farm opens its doors for tours during the warmer months, usually until March. 

Often led by farmhand Callum Robbie, the tours provide a look at the farm’s operations, offering insights into cattle breeds, milk production, and the workings of the dairy. 

The farm also hosts special events, such as their recent “Feast on the Farm”, which was a day on the farm highlighting English Longhorn beef. 

Looking ahead, Glen Huon Dairy plans to expand its events and incorporate new technologies to improve farm efficiency and pasture quality. 

With plans to adopt satellite systems for cow monitoring and a focus on enhancing pasture conditions, Mr. Shaju is optimistic about the future. 

He reflects on his background in agriculture and a newfound passion for dairy farming, saying he enjoys the daily learning on the farm and the enjoyment that comes with working closely with animals and the land.

Photos supplied by Bruny Island Cheese Company