King Island cheesemaker sees dairy future back on ‘artisan’ path

IT IS said that Swiss-born Berger is the best cheesemaker in Australia and one of the most admired by artisan makers, processors and of course foodies.

In an interview with King Island Radio, Berger shared his thoughts on the dairy's decline under corporate ownership, his hope for its revival and his willingness to talk to potential buyers undertaking due diligence.

King Island, famed for its rugged beauty and more than a century of making world-class dairy products, finds its cheese industry at a crossroads.

Ueli Berger’s journey with King Island Dairy began nearly 30 years ago, with a focus on creating high-quality artisanal cheeses. 

Living on the island for 10 years and continuing to work with the dairy and the owners Saputo until his retirement in October 2023, Berger became synonymous with excellence. During his tenure, he developed numerous award-winning cheeses that consolidated King Island’s reputation as a world-class producer. 

However, Berger observed a shift in priorities after the dairy’s acquisition by Saputo in 2019. 

"Saputo is more interested in volume – supermarket, food service deals and mass production," Berger explained. "My role was to innovate, to create new cheeses and maintain the highest quality. But once that focus disappeared, I lost interest."

Under Saputo’s ownership, Berger noticed a departure from the artisanal approach that had defined King Island Dairy.

"We used to produce cheeses exclusively for delis, working with chefs to craft something special. But when everything went to supermarkets, we lost that uniqueness," he said. 

"It’s like crafting fine jewellery and then selling it in a $2 shop—it just doesn’t make sense."

Adding to the challenges is the outdated state of the cheese factory on King Island. Berger acknowledged that significant upgrades would be needed to bring the facility up to modern standards.

"It requires a lot of work to give the factory a future," he admitted.

Despite this, Berger is adamant that the King Island Dairy brand still has immense potential. "The milk is still here, and it’s the same high-quality milk we’ve always used. The brand, the ingredients and the legacy are intact. It’s just about finding the right approach to move forward."

For Berger, the solution lies in scaling back to focus on quality over quantity. He envisions a smaller operation that produces premium cheeses for delis and chefs while maintaining a limited presence in supermarkets with select products.

"We could go back to what we did in the early 2000s — creating incredible cheeses for a niche market," he said. "The King Island name is still powerful, and with the right strategy, it could thrive again."

Berger didn’t hold back his disappointment in how the dairy has been managed. 

"When Saputo took over, they promised a happy family atmosphere, and I believed them. But it turned out to be very disappointing," he said.

He empathised deeply with the workers who remain at the factory, facing uncertainty about their jobs and the dairy’s future. 

"It’s heartbreaking to see what’s happened. A multinational company shouldn’t be able to come in and dismantle something so special. It shouldn’t be allowed. It’s not just about the cheese—it’s about the people, the community, and the history."

Despite his retirement, Berger’s passion for King Island Dairy remains undiminished. When asked if he would consider returning to help revive the operation with new owners, he responded without hesitation. 

"Of course, I would do it. I’d be on the first plane. I’d do anything to keep it going," he said.

For Berger, the dairy represents more than just a job—it’s a legacy he feels compelled to protect.

"I think about it nearly every day. If someone asked for my help, I’d gladly return to get things back on track."

Berger’s vision for the dairy offers a glimmer of hope for its future. He believes that with the right leadership and a renewed focus on artisanal production, the King Island Dairy could once again become a beacon of quality.

"The recipes, the milk, the reputation—it’s all still here," he said. "We just need to take a different approach. Smaller, more focused, and committed to excellence."

As the King Island dairy workers and the community waits for news about the dairy’s future, Berger’s words resonate deeply. His dedication to preserving the island’s cheesemaking heritage reflects a broader sentiment among locals who take immense pride in their unique products.

"The King Island Dairy isn’t just a business—it’s part of the island’s identity," he said. "We’ve created something incredible here, and it deserves to continue."

Rock lobster, beef and cheese are on the “must have” experience list of all who visit the island. Beer and distilled spirits have joined the culinary adventures.  Visitor surveys and polls show that having a King Island ‘foodie’ experience is at the top of visitors lists when making destination travel decisions.

In November 2023 Saputo announced its intention to close the dairy in June 2025. 

Despite endeavours by the state government and other players to find a buyer, the fate of King Island Dairy, remains unknown, but Berger’s call to action serves as a rallying cry for those who believe in its potential. His vision of a smaller, artisanal-focused operation offers a path forward—one that honours the island’s legacy while adapting to modern challenges.

For now, the King Island community holds onto hope, buoyed by the passion and expertise of advocates like Ueli Berger.